Milan, Italy – Milan Fashion Week Men’s for the Spring/Summer 2026 collections concluded on June 23, 2025, marked notably by the absence of several industry heavyweights. The runways, typically a vibrant showcase of cutting-edge design, felt quieter this season with major headliners such as Gucci, Fendi, and JW Anderson electing not to present.
Industry Giants Step Back
Sources close to the absent brands indicate that these decisions stem from ongoing periods of internal transformation. Many of the prominent labels are currently undergoing significant rebranding efforts and strategic shifts under relatively new executive teams. This wave of leadership changes across the fashion landscape has been colloquially termed an “HR crisis” by some observers, reflecting the widespread instability at the highest echelons of the industry.
The impact of this significant industry realignment was palpable throughout the week. Commentators noted a reduction in the overall novelty presented on the runways compared to previous seasons. Furthermore, the absence of marquee names appeared to contribute to a decrease in the number of international attendees, affecting the usual bustling atmosphere of Milan during the collections.
A Season of Executive Departures
The turbulence within fashion leadership extended beyond the strategic shifts of the absent brands, manifesting in a series of high-profile individual departures that unfolded even as the week progressed. On June 23, the very day Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS26 concluded, Prada CEO Gianfranco D’Attis announced his decision to step down from his position.
This announcement followed other recent significant exits within the sector. Francesco Risso departed his role as creative director at Marni, a label known for its distinctive artistic vision. Simultaneously, Ben Gorham left the beauty label Byredo, adding another layer to the prevailing sense of flux within leading fashion and lifestyle companies.
Major Corporate Handover at Kering
Perhaps the most seismic news to emerge during the Milan calendar concerned a monumental shift at the helm of one of the world’s largest luxury conglomerates. François-Henri Pinault announced his decision to transfer the leadership of luxury group Kering.
The executive poised to take the reins of the sprawling luxury empire is Luca de Meo. De Meo is widely recognized for his tenure as the CEO of automotive giant Renault, bringing a wealth of experience from outside the traditional luxury sector to one of its most influential groups. This handover signals potential new strategic directions for Kering’s diverse portfolio of brands.
Geopolitical Shadows Over the Runway
The intricate world of fashion, though seemingly insulated, rarely operates in a vacuum. The Milan shows unfolded against a backdrop of escalating global tensions. Hours before the highly anticipated Prada presentation, news broke regarding a US bombing of Iran. This stark reminder of international instability cast a long shadow over the proceedings.
Despite the grim geopolitical context, the Prada show itself presented a collection featuring models dressed in noticeably optimistic colors. This juxtaposition highlighted the complex relationship between creative expression and the realities of the world.
Creative Responses to Aggression
Following their show, Prada co-creative directors Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada addressed the underlying mood influencing their work. They spoke candidly about their deliberate decision to introduce a more gentle, nature-focused tone into the collection. This aesthetic choice, they explained, was a conscious creative response to the prevailing sense of aggression and conflict in the global environment.
Their comments underscored a broader theme: how designers grapple with external pressures and world events, translating complex emotions and observations into the language of fashion.
Looking Ahead to Paris
As the industry digests the strategic shifts and leadership changes highlighted during a subdued Milan season, attention quickly turns to the next major event on the calendar. Paris Fashion Week Men’s is scheduled to commence immediately on June 24, 2025, and will run through June 29, 2025. The Paris shows are anticipated to provide further insights into the direction of menswear and potentially reveal more about the strategies of global luxury houses in this period of significant transition.
