Paris, France — Dover Street Market (DSM), the globally acclaimed fashion concept store renowned for its curated selection of avant-garde and established designers, has taken a significant evolutionary step, officially unveiling its inaugural in-house label. Simply named DSM, the brand’s debut collection was introduced during the prestigious Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 calendar.
The launch signals a strategic expansion for DSM, moving beyond its established identity as a retail innovator to become a creative force in its own right. Founded by the influential duo Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons and Adrian Joffe, DSM has cultivated a reputation for its unique retail environments and boundary-pushing brand mix across its international locations.
The Debut Collection: Design and Philosophy
The first collection under the DSM label was designed by Japanese designer Kei Ninomiya. Ninomiya, who is also the creative director behind the acclaimed fashion line Noir Kei Ninomiya, brings a distinct aesthetic sensibility to this new venture. This collaboration is positioned as a long-term creative direction for the initial phase of the in-house brand.
The design philosophy for the debut collection is centered around accessible, easy-to-wear garments. Described by the brand as “unnamed team wear,” the pieces are conceived to resonate with and cater to the wider DSM community. This concept emphasizes a collective identity and practical utility over individual branding or high-fashion spectacle.
Crucially, the pricing strategy for the DSM label is positioned below the typical luxury bracket found within many of the store’s curated offerings. This aims to make the collection more attainable, reinforcing the idea of inclusive “team wear” for its dedicated customer base.
Showings and Presentation in Paris
The formal introduction of the DSM label took place with exclusive showings held from June 28 to July 1, 2025. The chosen venue for the debut was the Dover Street Market Paris showroom, located on the historic Rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the heart of the Marais district.
Holding the presentation during Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026 underscored the brand’s ambition and placed its new endeavor on a global stage alongside established industry players. The event provided an opportunity for buyers, press, and industry insiders to experience the collection firsthand and understand the vision behind the new in-house offering.
Strategic Significance of the Launch
The introduction of the DSM in-house label represents a pivotal moment in the company’s trajectory. For years, Dover Street Market has been celebrated primarily for its curatorial expertise – discovering, showcasing, and nurturing talent from around the world within its unique retail installations. This move marks a deliberate effort to expand its point of view beyond curation and actively participate in the design and production landscape.
Launching an in-house brand allows DSM to exert greater control over its product offering, potentially streamline supply chains, and create pieces that embody the core ethos and aesthetic of the Dover Street Market experience itself. It is a move that analysts suggest could significantly strengthen both the brand identity and contribute to business growth in an increasingly competitive retail environment.
The decision to enlist Kei Ninomiya for the inaugural collection provides immediate design credibility and aligns the new label with a designer already associated with innovative, conceptually driven fashion, fitting neatly within the broader DSM universe.
Looking Ahead
Following its debut at Paris Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2026, the first collection from the DSM label is anticipated to begin deliveries in early next year, likely early 2026, making the pieces available to consumers worldwide through Dover Street Market locations and potentially other retail channels.
The long-term plan involves Kei Ninomiya continuing his creative direction for the initial phase of the label, suggesting a sustained focus on the foundational aesthetic established in this first offering of “unnamed team wear.”
This launch positions DSM not just as a marketplace for high fashion, but as a multi-faceted entity capable of both identifying talent and generating its own creative output. It is a development poised to reshape perceptions of the iconic retailer and its role within the global fashion industry.
