Milan, Italy – June 20, 2025 – The global fashion spotlight converges on Milan today as Milan Fashion Week Men’s officially commences, setting the stage for the unveiling of Spring/Summer 2026 collections. Spanning four intensive days, the event promises a dynamic blend of established powerhouses, emerging talents, and significant shifts in presentation formats, reflecting the evolving landscape of contemporary menswear.
Anticipation is particularly high for presentations from some of the industry’s most storied names. Major houses such as Prada, Giorgio Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana are expected to command significant attention. These brands are renowned not only for their sartorial influence but also for their ability to attract a constellation of celebrity attendees to their elaborate and often historic venues across the city. Their shows are typically key barometers for upcoming trends and commercial directions in high-end menswear.
New Faces and Returning Talent
This season marks a notable entry onto the Milan schedule: British menswear brand Paul Smith is slated to make its debut here, having previously showcased its collections in Paris. This move underscores Milan’s continued magnetic pull as a vital platform for international designers. In addition to Paul Smith, the lineup welcomes other new additions, including Emirati fashion brand Qasimi and Japanese label Setchu, further diversifying the cultural and aesthetic perspectives on display.
The week also sees a significant return, with British designer Saul Nash staging his show in Milan for the second time. His presence reinforces the city’s role in nurturing and providing a stage for innovative voices in contemporary menswear.
Shifting Presentation Formats
A notable trend this season is the departure from traditional runway shows by several prominent brands in favor of more intimate and curated presentations. Brunello Cucinelli, Brioni, and Tod’s have all opted for this format, which often allows for a closer examination of craftsmanship and detail, fostering a more personal connection with press and buyers.
Similarly, DSquared2 is reportedly foregoing its usual high-energy catwalk event, choosing a different format for its SS26 presentation. These changes suggest a broader industry conversation about the most effective ways to communicate a brand’s vision and connect with its audience in an increasingly fragmented media landscape.
Prominent Absences Shape the Schedule
Adding intrigue and sparking industry discussion are the notable absences from this season’s event. Major players Gucci, Fendi, and Zegna are not featured on the official calendar. Each absence carries its own context.
Gucci’s decision follows the departure of its designer in February. The highly anticipated debut collection from the brand’s new creative director, Demna, has yet to be scheduled, leading to speculation about the brand’s future presentation strategy.
Fendi, whose menswear is overseen by designer Silvia Venturini Fendi, is also not participating this season. While Silvia Venturini Fendi continues to lead the brand’s menswear division, a specific reason for Fendi’s absence from the Milan schedule this season was not provided by organizers.
Zegna, another key name in Italian menswear, held its Spring/Summer 2026 show earlier this month in Dubai. This pre-emption of the traditional Milan calendar slot highlights brands’ increasing willingness to explore alternative global locations and timelines for their collections.
The Season Ahead
Over the next four days, attendees will navigate a schedule filled with events designed to showcase the sartorial direction for Spring/Summer 2026. From the grandeur of the established houses to the fresh perspectives offered by newcomers and the considered intimacy of brand presentations, Milan Fashion Week Men’s continues to serve as a critical nexus for the global menswear industry.
While the absence of several major names presents a different dynamic than in previous seasons, the presence of leading brands like Prada and Armani, coupled with the influx of new talent and experimental formats, ensures that the week remains an indispensable event for charting the course of future fashion trends and understanding the evolving business of style.
